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Edinburgh, Scotland, is a city with an amazing mix of bustling modern-day business and the rich course of history flowing throughout its cobbled streets. Nowhere is this more clear than the Royal Mile, which leads from Holyrood Abbey up to Edinburgh Castle on Castle Rock. A B&B and restaurant, The Witchery, is close to the castle, and decorated in a romantic, gothic style. The building itself is historic, and tucked away in a close – so that both staying and dining at The Witchery feels something like going back in time.
The Witchery integrates a lot of Scottish ingredients into its menu, such as
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salmon from the coast, and Angus beef. It’s very romantic here, with rich scarlets, dark wood, and the gentle murmurs and laughter of people out for a special meal. Come dressed somewhat formally – while jeans may be alright in a fancy Los Angeles restaurant, it would seem unseemly and out of step at The Witchery.
I stayed at The Witchery B&B and found it to be almost fantastical in its opulence and sense of time (real antiques everywhere, including the bathrooms!) so I expected a similar experience at the restaurant. The foie gras appetizer was excellent, and scallops – collected by divers in the Sound of Kilbrannon – are garlicky and original-tasting. The appetizers are a bit smaller than I’d expected them to be,
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though. Entrees are either seafood or roasted meats, with a couple of vegetarian dishes that seem to be almost grudgingly added. I really enjoyed the Scottish seafood platter, while my dining partner raved about the Cairngorm venison with pumpkin puree. The food here tends towards heavier, Scottish fare; you may want to order a side of sugar snap peas or broccoli to even things out. Service seemed to be a little slow, and less attentive than the setting indicated it should be. This may have been an anomaly; it was a busy night at the height of tourist season.
Now, a meal here is a real indulgence; clearly, most diners were either on vacation or celebrating a special occasion. It’s not just the setting that is lavish and indulgent, though. The food is very expensive. The Witchery is no Scottish pub or fish and chips joint. Another restaurant in the same building – and part of the
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property – is called The Secret Garden. We didn’t eat here, but from what I was told, the service there is similar to what we encountered, and the serving sizes too small. From what I can tell, The Witchery is a better choice.
The Witchery by the Castle
Castlehill
The Royal Mile
Edinburgh, Scotland
EH1 2NF
Tel. 0131 225 5613
Related posts:
The Hudson Hotel in Edinburgh, Scotland
Edinburgh’s Scotch Whisky Experience
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